What is an AHA?
If you're new to chemical peels, you've probably come across this term before. But what is an AHA? It's a type of exfoliating acid known as alpha hydroxy acid, usually derived from fruit, milk or sugar cane. Its function is to gently remove dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the skin, accelerate cell turnover and, as a result, reveal a smoother, more even and luminous complexion.
AHAs work on the most external layer of the skin, making them very effective ingredients for treating blemishes, uneven texture, fine lines and dullness. They are water-soluble, so they stay on the surface and do their job without penetrating deeply, helping to improve appearance without irritating.
What are AHAs used for?
AHAs act as gentle chemical exfoliators. So they do not contain physical particles (like typical scrubs with granules), but dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, helping them to slough off naturally and without friction.
This type of exfoliation has many advantages: it refines the texture, improves radiance, facilitates the absorption of the products you apply next and visibly improves the tone of your face. If you have post-acne spots, small wrinkles or skin that looks dull, AHAs can make a difference. And while it sounds like an intensive treatment, there are very gentle formulas that allow you to include them in daily or weekly routines without irritating or compromising the skin barrier.
Common examples of AHAs
Not all AHAs are the same. Some are more potent, some are gentler, and each has its own ideal time and skin type.
Glycolic acid
This is the most famous AHA. Its molecule is small, so it penetrates deeper. It is ideal for improving texture, blemishes and fine lines. It is, however, one of the most potent, so start gradually.
Lactic acid
Gentler than glycolic acid and with a bonus: it also moisturises. Perfect for dry or sensitive skin that wants to start with acids without worry. It also helps to improve dullness and firmness.
Malic acid and citric acid
They have antioxidant and illuminating properties. They are often used as complements in combined formulas to enhance results while minimising the risk of irritation.
An important detail: many Korean products combine several AHAs in the same formula to balance potency and tolerance, achieving a visible but progressive effect.
Main benefits
No-friction exfoliation: removes dead skin cells without rubbing or irritation.
- More even tone: help fade blemishes, post-acne marks and uneven pigmentation
- Smoother skin: smoothes uneven texture and improves the overall appearance of the face.
- Stimulate collagen: over time, they contribute to firmer, more elastic skin.
- Immediate glow: after a few weeks of use, skin looks more radiant and refreshed.
- Enhance the absorption of other active ingredients: by removing dead layers, serums and creams can penetrate better.
This combo makes them ideal allies, whether you're dealing with specific concerns or just want to keep your skin more radiant and luminous.
How to properly use an AHA?
Although they do not require prior experience, it is important to introduce them carefully, especially if your skin is not used to chemical exfoliators.
- Start with once or twice a week, in light concentrations. Then you can increase the frequency.
- Always use at nighttime, after cleansing and before serum or moisturiser.
- Avoid combining it with retinol or BHA in the same routine if you are just starting out or have sensitive skin.
- The following day, use sunscreen as your skin will be more exposed and more delicate.
- If you experience stinging or redness, reduce the frequency or switch to a milder formula.
Tip: always combine AHAs with generous hydration. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or panthenol help to maintain balance and prevent any signs of irritation.
What skin type can benefit from AHAs?
AHAs are suitable for almost all skin types, although it is important to adapt the type and concentration to specific needs:
- Oily skin: they help to keep pores clean and reduce the appearance of blemishes.
- Dry or dehydrated skin: lactic acid is ideal for its moisturizing effect.
- Mature skin: improve texture, elasticity and blur fine lines.
- Sensitive skin: they can be used with caution, choosing gentle formulas and applying them only once a week.
The important thing is to observe how your skin reacts and adjust your use accordingly. There is no perfect frequency, just one that suits you at the moment.
Which Korean products contain AHAs?
Within the K-beauty universe, there are many options that include AHAs and are suitable for different levels of experience.
- Gentle exfoliating toners: ideal to start with (such as those that combine AHA and BHA).
- Night or rinse-off masks: for a more intense but occasional exfoliation.
- Concentrated serums with AHA: recommended for those who have already tried exfoliators and want an extra boost.
- Exfoliating pads: very practical for controlled application.
- Cleansers with AHA: very gentle action, ideal for maintenance.
Look for formulas that also include soothing ingredients such as Centella Asiatica, aloe vera or madecassoside to balance.
The best part? AHAs have been proving for years that a good chemical peel can change skin. If you use them wisely and consistently, they become a key step in keeping skin smooth, luminous and even without the need for harsh formulas.