{"id":8769,"date":"2021-02-12T13:21:13","date_gmt":"2021-02-12T13:21:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/miin-cosmetics.com\/blog\/?p=8769"},"modified":"2021-02-12T13:21:38","modified_gmt":"2021-02-12T13:21:38","slug":"humectants-emollients-and-occlusives-which-is-which","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/miin-cosmetics.co.uk\/blog\/humectants-emollients-and-occlusives-which-is-which\/","title":{"rendered":"Humectants, emollients and occlusives. Which is which?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Moisturizer explained: Humectants, emollients and occlusives<\/h2>\n

Have you ever wondered how moisturisers hydrate the skin so well and provide that comfortable feeling?<\/p>\n

Just how do they do it? Which of the ingredients on the list does the magic? And, if any, what\u2019s the difference between the formula of serums and creams, and how does it affect their ability to hydrate the skin?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We know we\u2019ve definitely asked ourselves these questions! Keep reading to find out the answers!<\/p>\n

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What is TEWL?<\/b><\/h2>\n

Any conversation about skin hydration has to start by explaining the concept of TEWL.<\/p>\n

The stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin, made up of dead cells) protects the skin against external aggressors (UV radiation, pathogens, and so on), and reduces the evaporation of water from inside the body into the environment and, therefore, prevent a rapid loss of moisture.<\/p>\n

However, the stratum corneum is not fully prevent water evaporation. This is what leads to natural and constant Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).<\/p>\n

How does TEWL or Transepidermal Water Loss work?<\/b><\/h3>\n

When TEWL is under control, the stratum corneum holds back the right amount of water, allowing the skin to perform its protective (barrier) function to its best.<\/p>\n

However, when TEWL is too high, as is the case with dry skin for example, it\u2019s because the stratum corneum has been affected in some way, resulting in excessive loss of water through evaporation. This affects the barrier capabilities of the skin, leading to other problems, such as sensitivity, itching, redness, irritation, and so on.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Therefore, to restore and maintain the barrier function, it\u2019s a good idea to add moisture to the skin. How can we do this through cosmetics? By incorporating products with humectant, emollient, and\/or occlusive substances.<\/p>\n

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Humectant substances<\/b><\/h2>\n

These substances are made up of hygroscopic molecules \u2014 that is, their structure allows them to attract and trap water molecules in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin), just like a magnet. These water molecules may be in the environment, in the very formula in which the humectants are dissolved, and\/or in the deeper layers of the skin. They dissolve in water.<\/p>\n

These ingredients, therefore, provide moisture to the stratum corneum thanks to their ability to attract water. But don’t worry, even if they \u201csteal\u201d water from deeper layers of the skin, they won’t dry out it out! Water is constantly flowing from the inside of the body towards the deeper layers of the skin, as long as you hydrate properly. In other words: drink water!<\/p>\n

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Another benefit is that they help the formulas themselves hold on to their water, which helps preserve their physical and chemical properties over time.<\/p>\n

Some of the moisturising substances that you\u2019ll find in cosmetics are listed below, although these are only a few examples: there are up to 2051 ingredients registered with this function in the European database of cosmetic ingredients.<\/p>\n